Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
